We get it, you’ve got a ton of questions and need answers. We can answer some of those initial questions on our site, but hopefully if you have additional questions you’ll give us a call to discuss your project in more detail.
Most of the time water losses are covered by homeowners insurance. That isn’t to say it’s a guarantee that your insurer will pay for the cost of our services, but 9 out of 10 times we are able to get a successful claim for our customers. Call us if you’d like to discuss the particulars of your situation and we can help you better assess the best path forward!
No, you do not need a claim. Usually we suggest waiting until the initial water containment portion has begun before calling your insurer and filing a claim. We painstakingly take 100′s of pictures of your loss so there is no need for an adjuster to visually assess the loss before beginning work. In fact, that costs us precious time and means the cost of the claim to the insurer will only go up as more water damage occurs.
That won’t happen. If an insurer doesn’t agree to certain repairs, it’s simply because they are not fully informed of the situation. That falls on us to properly communicate every single action we’ve taken and the reason for that action. We are the experts at properly mitigating water damage, and for an insurer to willfully reject our recommendations makes them potentially liable should you suffer any health issues and future property damage due to the structure not being properly mitigated.
A deductible for homeowners insurance can range from $500 up to a percentage of the property’s assessed value. You’ll need to carefully read your own policy to know where you fall, but generally speaking the deductible is in the $1000 range. Deductibles are paid out during the build back portion of the project when any sections of your home that had to be torn out are replaced.
Hopefully not, but that will ultimately be determined by the status of your loss. Generally speaking though, it’s more cost-effective for us to dry-out your structure in a non-intrusive way than it is to have to tear our and replace things. So we, like you, want to keep your existing surfaces intact and dry them whenever possible!
Category 1 Water - Refers to a source of water that does not pose substantial threat to humans and classified as "Clean Water". Examples are broken water supply lines, tub or sink overflows or appliance malfunctions that involves water supply lines.
Category 2 Water - Refers to a source of water that contains a significant degree of chemical, biological or physical contaminants and causes discomfort or sickness when consumed or even exposed to. Known as "Grey Water". This type carries micro organisms and nutrients of micro organisms. Examples are toilet bowls with urine (no feces), sump pump failures, seepage due to hydrostatic failure and water discharge from dishwashers or washing machines.
Class of water damage is determined by the probable rate of evaporation based on the type of materials affected, or wet, in the room or space that was flooded. Determining the class of water damage is an important first step, and will determine the amount and type of equipment utilized to dry-down the structure.
Class 1 - Slow Rate of Evaporation Affects only a portion of a room. Materials have a low permeance/porosity. Minimum moisture is absorbed by the materials.
Class 2 - Fast Rate of Evaporation. Water affects the entire room of carpet and cushion. May have wicked up the walls, but not more than 24 inches.
Class 3 - Fastest Rate of Evaporation. Water generally comes from overhead, affecting the entire area; walls, ceilings, insulation, carpet, cushion, etc.
Class 4 - Specialty Drying Situations. Involves materials with a very low permeance/porosity, such as hardwood floors, concrete, crawlspaces, plaster, etc. Drying generally requires very low specific humidity to accomplish drying.